Fashion Week haute couture is the time when fashion houses pull out all the stops with their overflowing creativity. We're talking hundreds of hours of work, teams of experts and thousands of precious elements used to create these extraordinary collections.
In all, no fewer than 32 shows over four days. Stars such as Shakira, Cardi B and even the incredible Naomi Watts arrived. A few American and Asian guests preferred to make themselves scarce elsewhere, but fortunately, the goddess of fashion herself, Anna Wintour, was present and the shows were sold out. Haute couture fashion week, a discipline that can only be experienced in Paris, contributes to the capital's cultural and economic influence. For this Autumn-Winter 2023-2024 season, designers showed the extent of their talent by reinventing clothing with head-turning theatrical stagings.
Here's a look back at the breathtaking looks we saw on the catwalks.
Dior in gold
A fishnet cape tied with gold braids, with matching bangs and macramé. The model wore it with a lamé chiffon dress in nude and gold tones. To create this incredible look, a team of 5 people worked flat out. It took no less than 2,000 hours of embroidery and 500 hours to assemble. An estimated 5,000 meters of wire were used. Yes, yes! 5 kilometers of pure fashion brilliance - haute couture is an art!
Chanel paillette
A tank top in embroidered silk tulle, with dazzling white camellias and silver sparkles peeking through the bottom. To complete the ensemble, a long skirt with large pleats in silver crackle fabric that sparkles with a thousand lights. It's a refined white jersey of singular elegance. The embroidery, a meticulous work of white micro-beads and transparent crystals, with colored sequins underneath to create a unique hue. 14,250 glass beads, 28,000 sequins, 6,276 Swarovski crystal sparkles and 732 hours of work to create this breathtaking ensemble!
Valentino plumage
At the Château de Chantilly, the Italian fashion house's 2023-2024 couture show, orchestrated by the talented Pierpaolo Piccioli, was regal yet resolutely modern. We can't forget that incredible feathered headdress, which went perfectly with a monochrome outfit with architectural lines. It was a real masterstroke, blending elegance and audacity.
Schiaparelli oversize
A coat with an oversized collar, made from 12,000 rectangles of hand-painted mirror-effect leather. It took 300 hours to assemble this marvel. To avoid controversy last season, the designer turned to airy, aesthetic inspirations, paying homage to artists who collaborated with Elsa Schiaparelli, such as Lucian Freud and Yves Klein. Color, drama and incredible proportions!
Balenciaga past present
An incredible dress with 25,000 sequins and 10,000 pearls, requiring 1,800 hours of labor. Artistic director Demna plays with past and present, beginning the show with a sober black velvet gown adorned with an integrated pearl necklace, and concluding with a Joan of Arc-inspired knight's armor dress made of chrome 3D resin. In between, Demna explored all possibilities: dazzling dresses, strict tailoring and even an original pair of jeans-sweater-coats.
Giambattista Valli enchanted
An exquisite gown, adorned with a gradation of 8,300 Cherry Blossoms embroidered on delicate three-ply silk organza. Each petal seems to come to life, with 11,000 sparkling pearls and 13,750 crystals adding a touch of dazzle. A true haute couture marvel, where floral beauty blends harmoniously with timeless fairytale elegance.
Thom Browne incredible
On the Opéra Garnier stage, Thom Browne regaled us with model Alek Wek, installed center stage in an XXL recumbent cotton coat surrounded by luggage and (faux) pigeons. Wool and silk threads, used like paintbrushes, evoked seascapes. A giant golden lobster embroidered along the spine, pixelated crabs, waves in tulle and fish in pearls. Clownish make-up and baroque wigs add a dramatic, offbeat edge.
Charles de Vilmorin romanesque
A captivating ensemble featuring a white silk skirt with asymmetrical cutouts and a boldly deconstructed structure. Refined finishes, inspired by English seams and handkerchief hems, preserve the lightness of the fabric. The horse-shaped hat, fashioned by visual artist Damien Moulierac, was created from clay and silicone molds. As for the bustier, it's a piece in Worbla painted with a molded leather effect, created in just one hour backstage, directly on the body of model Maggie Mauer. In all, it took no less than 101 hours of work to create this sensational look.
Alexandre Vauthier's fairy tale
Alexandre Vauthier's latest creation transported us into a world of glamour. Its breathtaking gown, adorned with over 40,000 delicately hand-tied metallic feathers, seemed to float in the air. Delicate gradations and clever cut-outs added an audacious touch. The carpet of caviar pearls and gold crystals offered hypnotic sparkle with every step. Thanks to the expertise of Maison Lesage, the embroidery was simply breathtaking. It took no less than 1,980 hours of meticulous work to bring this masterpiece to life. A symphony of beauty and exceptional craftsmanship!
Viktor & Rolf
To celebrate 30 years of creation, the bewitching Dutch duo Viktor & Rolf focused on the smallest garment, the bikini, which they sublimated without elastane, defying the easy way out. Futuristic trompe-l'œil swimsuits that transport us: cascades of bows, frenetic ruffles, sculpted letters that play with our perception. Their presence is spectral, in masculine black suits, floating faceless, clinging to the models' waists or perched on their shoulders.
Jean-Paul Gaultier
Since 2021, Jean Paul Gaultier has been inviting designers to his haute couture collections. This season, Julien Dossena plays a score full of references. Aprons in exquisite lace on tailored suits, the marinière is reinvented in a metallic dress weighing over 10 kilos, and the famous conical-breasted corsets are in full bloom. Each model is named after a district of Paris. A tribute to the couturier's favorite places. "Ecole Militaire" refers to a richly embroidered officer's jacket, but the show's star silhouette is "Père-Lachaise", a long black velvet dress whose décolleté is stitched with - real - red roses.
Iris van Herpen aquatic
The Dutch visionary transports us to an imaginary world where humanity thrives on the seabed. Her dazzling collection unveils bewitching creatures draped in mordant organza silks. They are wrapped in laser-cut structures, adorned with sparkling sequins. Large, asymmetrical wrap dresses add a majestic touch. Like modern mermaids, these underwater creatures enchant us with their aquatic grace and remind us of the infinite magic of fashion.
Armani Privé magic
This divine crinoline dress, delicately embroidered with flowers, where each flounce is skilfully highlighted with hand-sewn piping. The skill of the seamstresses is combined with unwavering patience, as no less than 700 hours were devoted to the creation of this graceful silhouette, which required the use of no less than 300 meters of crinoline. A veritable tour de force where magic and meticulousness come together to create a fashion masterpiece.